The instructions call for 90 links to be used for each side, although I had to remove one link on the left side but this may be due to imprecise location of the aforementioned mounts. I ended up gluing the right mount approximately in the 1 o’clock position, and alternately the left mount in the 11 o’clock position. The instructions for the positioning of the front idler wheels are vague because the mounts swivels in their bases which will affect the length of the tracks if they are not in the right position, so keying the mounts would have been helpful. The tracks are the individual link type and there is some sag which is why I left the fenders off to make this a bit easier, although I didn’t need to because the guide horns are snuggly held between the road wheels so sagging them turned out to be quite easy and I could’ve glued the tracks to the wheels if I hadn’t glued the wheels on yet. I used a toothpick to apply ameba shaped blotches.The wheels have very short mounting pins which is why I haven’t glued them on until now. I used a toothpick to apply ameba shaped blotches. Basecoat the camouflage uniform with a 1:1 mix of Black and Luftwaffe Cam. Dark Green (896)Įlbow and Knee Pads – German Field Grey WWII (830)īelow are the steps I took in painting the camouflage. If you find success please send tips my way.Ĭamouflage – Luftwaffe Cam. If you’re more committed to the crusade of historical accuracy than I was then I applaud your fanaticism and have fun. I’ll take the hit for historical accuracy because I think what I came up with looks passable to those who don’t know what right should look like. The easiest solution would have been to paint the camo in a solid bright green color since that’s what the camo looks like at a distance anyway but I decided against it and threw together a BDU-looking camo pattern. Looking at Google images of modern Russian army camouflage gave me a headache and trying to figure out how to replicate it at 28mm pushed the headache into migraine territory.
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